- Source: Jeff Slowek, Trichologist & Licensed Cosmetologist, 2015
There are a few ways to influence the amount of curl in the hair, but understand that relative humidity in the air
will dictate longevity of most hairstyles (I'll explain below).
Lets begin with a basic understanding of the 3 types of "bonds" present within the hair:
Disulfide bonds: Responsible for 1/3 of total strength. These bonds can only be broken by chemicals.
Salt (ionic) bonds: Responsible for 1/3 of total strength. Broken when hair is wet and reformed as hair dries.
Hydrogen bonds: Responsible for 1/3 of total strength. Broken when hair is wet and reformed as hair dries.
When we style our hair we essentially reform our Salt and Hydrogen bonds into a new "shape" (that shape
being influenced by whatever tool we may be using). There are a few ways to enhance how these bonds do
1. Increasing the Cationic and Anionic attractions in the hair to form as many Salt bonds as possible. This
can be efficiently done through the use of Medium Molecular Weight proteins (size 500 to 800) present in
shampoos and conditioners (Ask your stylist if your products contain these).
2. The direction and elevation hair is held at as it is being dried or styled.
3. Allowing hair to cool completely as it remains in the shape and at the elevation it was styled.
Please note that the initial body/volume achieved will directly correlate to the aforementioned, however
longevity is primarily determined by relative humidity.
The same bonds (Salt,Hydrogen) that are broken by water are also broken by water vapor present in the air.
In relatively high humidity environments it will be difficult to maintain connections with these bonds. The higher
the humidity, the more bonds break, the greater the impact on the hair. The use of oils (spray shine, etc...)
will NOT prevent the bonds from breaking.
My hair won't hold a curl no matter what I do. Any advice?
dull, frizzy or over-processed hair. We fix hair damage caused by chemical services and we can help you prevent hair damage future hair damage. Male-pattern hair loss.
Female-pattern hair loss, Alopecia/Alopecia Areata (baldness/patchy baldness), Nutritional deficiencies (Anemia, protein, etc...) , Acute Telogen Effluvium , Chronic Telogen Effluvium ,
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